Last summer… we did it. My wife and I took our first trip without the kids.
Our moms gave a generous anniversary present of watching them. Thus, we were able to celebrate ten years together by going to the other side of the planet.
It was a hard-earned and long-anticipated trip in so many ways. The fact that our kids are at an age where this is doable is an accomplishment in and of itself. So is hitting that ten year mark. We wanted to go somewhere big.
It so happened that New Zealand had been sitting at the top of our bucket lists for quite some time.
Why New Zealand?
I mean, New Zealand is an epic place on so many levels, but here’s the thing that appealed to us the most:
Natural Beauty. We’d seen the pictures. We’d seen The Hobbit. The Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe. And my favorite depiction of the New Zealand bush: The Hunt for the Wilderpeople. All this it stirred up a longing to be in those wide open spaces taking deep breaths, you know?
New Zealand’s an adventure hub. That kind of goes hand in hand with all the natural wonders. If you like to experience nature in ways that need a harness, crampons, or some other gear, it’s a spot you’ll likely enjoy. The natural beauty spans both of its islands. A lot of colder and more mountainous type adventures tend to hang out on the southern edge of South Island.
Cheeky Kiwi humour. I’ve already riffed on people’s different takes on humor around the world. In doing so, I expressed appropriate envy towards how funny everyone in New Zealand seems to be. They make it seem effortless.
It’s the edge of the world. I mean, picking a spot to be the “edge of the world” will always be pretty arbitrary. The southerness, proximity to the date line, and isolation give New Zealand an edge. As a geography buff, it tickles.
Lots of options for places to visit. Auckland’s where all the urban excitement is, and you can still drive to some gorgeous state parks. Christchurch is chill vibes. The cities to its south bring nature and adventure… especially Queenstown and Dunedin. Rotorua is the spot to go to catch more Maori experiences. Wellington is a little too easy to underestimate. You’ll leave with several spots on your “next time” list.
Where to Stay
Cordis (Auckland)
This was a bit of a higher-end hotel than we’d typically go for. We had a pass-through night in Auckland though. After a long flight pampering ourselves felt appropriate. The rooms were comfy and the on-site pub was good for dinner. The next morning, I got to wake up to one of the best breakfasts of my life. The hotel-restaurant, 8, represents eight different cuisines that are prominent in New Zealand. They take that approach with the most important meal of the day as well.
SO/ (Auckland)
Another Auckland favorite. The room we had was a bit funny- a luxurious bathtub sat in the center of the room, the bed and TV relegated to a side. Almost as if the room prioritized being a bathroom. I thought it was funny. The location was great, and we could walk to the ferry terminal or into downtown Auckland.
The Observatory Hotel (Christchurch)
This spot is one of my favorite hotels ever. It’s official. A converted university site with rooms that feel like home. The drawing room is one of the coziest sites ever. The whole complex sits right across from the Botanical Gardens. A very easy walk can get you into the heart of the city in less than ten minutes.
Scenic Suites (Queenstown)
This one’s a bit more pricey, but lives up to its name with a water view. If you were aiming for a cozy day and trying to make the hotel part of the experience, this is a good bet. Queenstown lodging tends to run a bit higher than most of New Zealand anyways, so might as well lean into it.
Novotel Lakeside (Queenstown)
If you do want to do Queenstown on more of a budget, the Novotel looks great and feels complete. Plus, it still gives you that lake view.
The Chamberson (Dunedin)
It’s a boutique hotel in a historic building. I often hear of families raving about it as a more home-style accommodation.
My Top Three
1) Castle Hill Rocks
This site is famous for being the location where they filmed Narnia. The battle scene for The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe to be exact. But even if it wasn’t that… this would still be a worthwhile place to go.
Large, ancient, limestone boulders sit in the center of an otherwise open expanse. They’re surrounded of rolling golden hills. Astonishing. A Maori sacred site. I found it breathtaking.
2) The Observatory Hotel in Christchurch
Yes, I already mentioned this in my where-to-stay section, but I’m double dipping! I must continue to talk up The Observatory. It is in a repurposed university. You can tell by the doors that have Science or Phys Ed labeled above them. That said, they made plenty more out of the school than a hotel. The complex includes a wine bar, a paint-and-sip spot, a pub, a restaurant, and an occasional market. There’s a full-on cinema that was having a French film festival while we were there. There’s a dance studio. The top level of the hotel is a rotating exhibit. It was highlighting the Maori Creation Story at the time of our visit.
3) Waitomo Gloworm Caves in Hamilton
This was one of those experiences that left me thinking… wow… I get to be alive! The glowworm caves in Waitomo were an unreal experience. After stepping into the limestone caves, our guides led us on a boat ride down the river. It brought us right up close to the glowing blue worms hanging overhead. Breathtaking.
Essential Eating
Check out the impressive food halls.
Most of New Zealand’s cities have a signature food hall. Some have more than that! We got our best taste of it in Christchurch.
Riverside Market (Christchurch)
Some boutiques and three dozen restaurants representing all kinds of cuisines. Some nights, I had to get two meals from here to try it all. Some of our favorites included: A dosa restaurant. A woodfired pizza spot. A Nepali momo stand, a gin bar, and the Argentine street kitchen. Apologies for not remembering any of their proper names.
Little High Market (Christchurch)
It’s hard to imagine that you would even need an alternative to the Riverside Market. But there’s this! It’s got some good eats of its own. I had a great lamb shank curry from the Thai spot here.
Hangi
Hangi is traditional maori cooking, where meats, staples, and veggies steamed in a pit oven.
The Hangi Shop (Auckland)
It’s in a somewhat busy and unsuspecting part of town. It’s also one of your best bets to try Hangi when passing through Auckland.
Mitai Maori Village (Rotorua)
Rotorua has the most pronounced Maori presence of New Zealand’s urban centers. The Mitai Maori Village is a full cultural center in a bush setting. People rave about their hangi.
The Stoaker Room (Cromwell)
So, this one isn’t Hangi. I included it in because it’s the invention of a winemaker who began smoking meats in aged wine barrels.
Gastropubs
Funny enough, my hometown has a surplus of New Zealand restaurants. Most of them are gastropubs focused on burgers and beers. Turns out, that’s because New Zealand does those things quite well.
OGB (Christchurch)
Despite me calling it OBG by mistake, it’s in a stunning building with good cocktails and pub foods.
The Church (Christchurch)
A pub built in a literal repurposed church. This place is always lively at night.
The Occidental (Auckland)
Belgian pub in downtown Auckland. Impressive taplist.
Asian Food in Auckland
Auckland’s got a strong Asian population and proximity to Southeast Asia. With that comes some great food.
Java (Auckland)
Indonesian food is incredible and not always easy to find back in the US. Java is splendid.
Jeepney Filipino Restaurant (Auckland)
Great menu with both fan favorites and deep cuts. Good location right on K-Street.
Wine Tasting, of course
How could you not? We booked a proper wine trail which was a good way to get a more personal introduction to the winemakers
Waipara Springs Winery (Waipara)
Gorgeous site, and their lunch menu comes with a wide variety of good eats.
Georges Road Winery (Waipara)
We loved Pepper, the dog who lived on site, as well as all the Syrah. Wonderful family-ran business.
For some fine dining
Twentyseven Steps (Christchurch)
This was our official anniversary dinner, as in, what we ate the night of our proper anniversary. Inventive dishes, good cocktails, cozy space. Loved this restaurant.
Other Things to See and Do In…
Hamilton
Hobbiton
The Shire is New Zealand’s most touristy thing to do… and you know what? Because this is New Zealand, it’s still way chill. I loved the Hobbit Home designed to accommodate a walkthrough. I loved the recreation of the Green Dragon Tavern. It complete with their own proprietary beers. Hope you don’t like it too much, though… this is the only place you can get it!
Auckland
Take the Ferry to Other Points
The Auckland Ferry works well. It can get you to some of the small islands and communities across from Auckland. We considered Rangitoto Island, which is a volcanic cone island and nature reserve. Waiheke Island would’ve also brought beaches and wineries in a scenic spot. We ended up taking the ferry to Devonport, a suburb with an awesome library and great used bookstores.
Piha Beach
I’m no fan of left-hand driving, but I sucked it up and rented a car. It’s that easy to get to Piha Beach State Park from Auckland. Here we saw some impressive waves. Gorgeous rock formations draped a black sand beach at winter.
Kitekite Falls
We did this on the same visit as Piha Beach and it ended up being one of my favorite New Zealand experiences. A two mile hike takes you through some gorgeous North Island flora to Kitekite. An impressive waterfall! Its pool works well as a swim hole.
Catch an All Blacks Match (or Experience)
When I studied abroad in Australia in high school, I fell in love with (and got beat up from) rugby. I still find it much more entertaining than American football. I was keen on catching an All Blacks match in Auckland. Unfortunately, the schedule didn’t quite allow for it. But there is an All Blacks Experience in town that pretty much runs year round.
Hit Up the Vintage Shops
Auckland has a pretty impressive offering of vintage shops. They reminded me of what thrifting used to be like. I assume other New Zealand cities do as well. I picked up a great 80s starter jacket from Smoove at St. Kevins Arcade which is a good spot to start a thrifting outing.
South Island
Arthur’s Pass National Park
Home of the kea, New Zealand’s mischievous alpine parrot. We visited on a rainy day and still managed a hike up to the top of Devil’s Punchbowl. Gorgeous view.
TraNZAlpine Scenic Railway
This is a nice option for going between Christchurch and Arthur’s Pass. The train comes set with a snack car. It also has a viewing car where you can get some open-air looks at the remote edges of South Island.
Christchurch
Christchurch Botanical Garden
I loved the city’s Botanical Garden. So many different walking spots and an impressive collection of diverse plant species. When I was there, some big Pokemon Go event was happening, so glad to see that its still going strong in New Zealand. There was also an Alice in Wonderland themed scavenger hunt. It was for the kiddos that we wound up participating in.
Earthquake Memorials
Christchurch’s devastating 2011 earthquake and further rebuild are hard to look past. Everything is new and most locals have stories to tell. One of the closest looks we got at the whole ordeal was via the Cardboard Cathedral.
Enjoy the Gathering Centers
When Christchurch began its rebuild, many Maori leaders contributed to the design. They planned gathering centers around rivers. This keeps with customs, incorporating food where possible. The Avon runs by the Riverside Food Market. And the Bridge of Remembrance. And the Margaret Mahy Playground.
The Te Araroa Trail
I heard so much about the adventures in Queenstown that are now at the top of my next-time list. One thing I’d love to do if I ever got extended time in New Zealand would be to try and hike the Te Araroa Trail. The trail spans the whole country and can take as much as 4-6 months.