I've always seen Montréal as an undeniably cool city. As the populated core of Quebec, it somehow manages to be simultaneously gritty and fancy. There’s no shortage of good eats, connections to personalities like Jackie Robinson and Leonard Cohen, and lots of different neighborhoods to explore. Montréal somehow manages to have it both ways, with plenty of green spaces interwoven throughout the big city.
Why Montréal?
Here are a few other reasons why it’s hard to do wrong with a Montréal visit.
A portal to a taste of Europe. If you want the feel of Europe but don’t have the time, energy, or desire to book it across an ocean, Quebec will probably be one of your better options. While this is probably truer of Quebec City and its resemblance to Hogsmeade, you’ll catch that feel around Montréal.
Despite how *different* Montréal might feel at times, it’s actually also very accessible. Many major airlines around North America or Western Europe can get you right to the Pierre Trudeau Airport. I’m all the way in San Diego–a city with very few ties to Quebec–and yet there’s a twice-weekly Air Canada jaunt that takes under five hours. For anyone in the Northeast… especially New England, it’s not a bad road trip at all.
Montréal’s got a very strong creative scene, so it’s not unusual for people to visit with something artsy in mind. Whether that’s indie music, street art, theatre, or any other creative outlet, it’s probably got a scene around town.
You’ll find plenty of good stuff to eat around town. Of course poutine is the crowd pleaser, and Montréal’s most iconic restaurant remains Schwartz’s Deli, but there are plenty of independent restaurants around town to keep exploring. It’s a great spot to discover some French baked goods and Asian fusion dishes.
This might not apply to people with an especially strong distaste for the cold, but I find Montréal to be a great winter destination. It at least has a lot of charm and some of its best spots have a cozy atmosphere. If you want a milder taste of that, consider the fall at least. Plus there will be good leaf peeping.
Where to Stay
Accommodations can be a bit on the tricky side in Montréal, as the closer to city centre you get, the more expensive the nights, the smaller the space, and the more limitations there are on how you can get in. You can always stay somewhere on the southern or western end of Parc Mont Royal or near the airport to save money and use a rideshare to get into town. But there won’t be quite as much personality there.
That said, here are a few options for you to consider, especially if location is a consideration:
Hôtel Château de l’Argoat (Quartier Latin)
People seem to love their stays at Château de l’Argoat. Rooms are fairly spacious, and wile the accommodations are older, they’re well maintained and have a bit of a vintage feel. The location is great, keeping you a walking distance from all the iconic stuff on Boulevard Saint-Laurent and just outside the Sherbrooke Metro Station. Lots of bang for the buck.
Château Versailles Hotel (Downtown Montréal)
Located in South Downtown just outside Concordia University. It gives you pretty decent rates for the size and comfort level, and it’s in a good location near some of Montréal’s most interesting restaurants. It is an older hotel, so anticipate some inconveniences around the lack of elevators or ramps.
Hotel Le Saint-André (Downtown Montréal)
The pros-and-cons of this place are very pronounced. The pros are mostly around value and location. It’s hard to find a better price for a spot anywhere in this part of the city. And the rooms and accommodations aren’t bad. The cons however include the fact that the immediate location can be a bit dodgy, combined with the lack of parking. We wound up parking far enough away that we had to rideshare to the hotel. mk
My Top Three
1) Do a DIY walking tour of Montréal’s Graffiti Alley
“Graffiti Alley” is more of a concept in Montréal than an actual designated area like you’d find in Toronto. That said, Montréal is still home to an incredible collection of street art. A walk up Rue Saint Laurent is the perfect spot to catch some newer graffiti piece closer to street level and some iconic works of street art too. A bonus is that this walk takes you right by Schwartz’s Deli. Next door is Coco Rico, a solid Portuguese Restaurant in its own right. Coco Rico’s side wall features my favorite mural– one of Jackie Robinson in a Montreal Royal’s uni.
2) Explore the Montréal Biome
Its a semi-indoor zoo featuring three distinct biome zones. And it’s right by the old Olympic Stadium. Like somebody decided Zootopia should be set up right by the home of the old Montréal Expos. It’s a great spot to wander around for a bit, and if you’re doing a visit with kids, it’s one spot you should have on your list.
3) Walk up and down Rue Saint Denis
This pedestrian street has such a high concentration of my favorite restaurants and little shops around town. It’ll have everything from a pair of my favorite bakeries (more on Kouing Amann in a moment!) to some vintage shops stocked with a few impressive throwbacks.
Essential Eating Experiences
Smoked meat, of course!
It’s probably Montréal’s most iconic food item, other than the bagel. Let’s be real, though, as good as those bagels can be, the proper smoked meat sandwich on rye with mustard is just so much more interesting. The search for a proper viande fumee will take you to Montréal’s most iconic eatery…
Schwartz’s Deli
One visit to Schwartz’s Deli and you’ll immediately get it… this place is a local staple. It has a line that usually wraps around the block, but the staff is impressively good at getting everyone through in timely fashion. It’ll be packed, so prepare to share dining space with some strangers. The wall decor will reinforce how popular the place is, having welcomed famous visitors ranging from Hallie Berry to Hank Aaron.
TIP: The classic way to enjoy the smoked meat on rye is with a cherry coke. You should take that suggestion. For some reason the cherry coke flavor hits harder this way.
Schwartz’s Alternatives
Schwartz’s is popular, and deserves its acclaim in my opinion. But the smoked meat sandwich transcends a single eatery. If you were local, there’s no way you’re pulling up to Schwartz’s every day. If you’re looking for some less crowded, less frenzied spots to enjoy the Montréal classic. Lester’s is a local legend with generous portions. Main Deli also gets a lot of love. Dunn’s Deli on Metcalfe offers a hand-carved touch.
Schwartz’s Neighbor
Right next to Schwartz’s you’ll find Coco Rico, a Portuguese rotisserie with some fantastic peri peri that you can get with a side of poutine. It's a counter style service.
Discover some truly unique Asian Eats
Montréal has seen several different waves of Asian immigration, including a Chinese influx in the 1970s. Many migrant restaurateurs discovered that bold Sichuan spices were often a bit much for Quebecois customers unaccustomed to the heat. This resulted in some dish adaptations and new creations in Chinatown’s restaurant scene.
Sammi et Soupe Dumpilng
Sammi et Soupe Dumpling has several locations around Central Montréal and each are a delight. They’re also a great opportunity to taste Montréal’s peanut butter dumpling. In the scenario described above, the chefs at Le Piment Rouge (which only closed down recently) decided to tame their chilis with peanut butter. The result was good enough that it spread to different eateries around the area.
Neotokyo
Neotokyo bills itself as a ramen restaurant, but its got a lot more than that going on. The mazeboba is one of the better items, as is the salmon mazemen. The interior is pretty cool, coming across as a late night in Tokyo street scene.
Catch bakery bliss over on Rue Saint Denis
Kouing Amman
I was introduced to the Kouign Amman by someone saying “it’s basically like a croissant, but like, flakes on flakes!” I think that description could’ve been a bit better, but it is a fluffy, flaky treat with a little bit of a syrupy coating to add some crisp. The treat originated in Brittany, France but can be found at a tiny bakery that shares its name in Montréal. I ordered a petit, and still got a full cake sized treat. If you want something more doable in one sitting, make sure to order a slice.
Boulangerie Le Toledo
This is a large bakery with cozy seating and a very wide variety of baked goods. If Kouign Amman is a baker specialist, then Boulangerie Le Toledo nails being a generalist. Lots of different options, a good energy, and some great coffee and drink options to go along with them.
And a few other favorites…
Café Camas Social
This is one of my top recommendations if you’re in need of a coffee shop workstation. Café Camas Social is a inviting, warm, but not too loud. It has a laid back atmosphere and a great dirty chai.
Hoche Glace
Hoche Glacé is the most impressive dairy-free ice cream offering I’ve come across. The whole slate of flavors is hand-made and crafted right on site. I’ve never been a big sorbet or fruity ice cream fan, but they absolutely nailed it.
Portugalia
Portugalia is another great Portuguese option in Montréal, also specializing in grilled chicken. Montréal’s Portuguese options come in strong at every turn.
A few other favorites
Joie de Livres
I’m a big fan of Joie de Livres– a bookstore/café/bar in Montreal’s Mile End area. They pride themselves on bilingual offerings of guilty pleasures, including romance, fantasy, sci-fi, and horror. If you enjoy simply bookstore lurking, this is a great opportunity.
Parc Mont Royal
When you simply look at a map of Montréal, you’ll note how Parc Mont Royal seems to be the epicenter of the city. It really is an impressive park. The elevation provides plenty of amazing viewpoints all around and the trees are inviting. Even as a visitor, clearing out an afternoon to hang out in the park isn’t a bad idea.
Parc Jean-Drapeau
Another park recommendation! The Jardins des Floralies is absolutely photogenic, especially with some recently added floral sculpts. The one caveat I’d have to give to this place is that it can be difficult to navigate around to a proper parking slot.
Crew Collective & Café
If you can navigate your way into one of the busiest spots in all of Montréal, just a couple blocks over from Notre Dame, be prepared for the most gorgeous coffee shop experience. Crew Collective & Café is built into a converted old bank with high ceilings and a cathedral like atmosphere. The setting is the main draw, but the pistachio latte and matcha are both highly recommended.