Don’t Underestimate Nairobi’s Food Scene
Sometimes you arrive in a place, just knowing it’s going to be a food-centric stay. Bologna? Oaxaca? Chengdu? Better double check the itinerary to see if you have enough dinners to make it through the list of must-try items… you just might need to double up!
Then there are places that weren’t on your radar, but you very quickly realize they should’ve been. That was my experience in Nairobi. I was amazed by the amount of places to eat I was told were simply a must. Thankfully my journey there was partly to understand Kenyan running culture and participate in a marathon… meaning my calorie intake was UP. Still, there were plenty of eateries left on my “next time” list.
I don’t know when that next time will be, but ever since returning I’ve been recommending Nairobi as a destination, particularly as a good entry point into African travel. With that general recommendation comes a whole bunch of more specific food recs. Here are some dishes to try and where to find them!
Go to Hashimi BBQ for Mishkaki
This was a joint that locals fell in love with back when it was at its old location tucked behind a gas station. That usually bodes well, doesn’t it? While the new spot has a more polished ambience, its retained its mastery of grilled meat.
Mishkaki is a cornerstone of Kenyan BBQ. Picture a localized kebab. Skewers of marinated meat that concentrate as much flavor into one bite as the grill master can manage. It’s spiced and grilled, often eaten as street food or bar snack… but here it can stand on its own! If you are looking to pair it with something, the butter naan and chili chips come highly recommended.
Try Kenyan Churrascaria at Carnivore
Bring an appetite. You definitely don’t want to come here to nibble.
If you’ve ever had a Brazilian Churascarria before, where servers come by with cuts of meat on spears and check the card in front of you to see if you’re ready for more, this is what you’re getting at Carnivore, but Kenyan style.
Steak? Chicken breast? Sausage? Yup. But also… ostrich and crocodile and camel if you so choose. Your only defense against the swords of meat is a little flag they give to use in surrender.
Pro-tip: This place is also the birthplace of Dawa, a cocktail a bit like a gingery caipirinha.
Participate in the coffee shop rivalry between Java House and Artcaffé
Nairobi’s got a coffee scene, and residents do enjoy camping out in a coffee shop for conversation, caffeine, and computer work. But there’s a turf war.
Java House is the OG. A longtime staple around Nairobi with massive mugs, good coffee, and even burgers.
Artcaffé’s a bit newer on the scene. Hip playlists, European influences, and artisanal pastries.
I have my own opinion as to which is better… but go try both and form your own!
That being said, I will share my own opinion… they’re both good. Artcaffé might have a slight edge in terms of coffee and food, but Java House is tough to unseat as an original. And if you want a more localized experience, that’s the one I’d go for. But do them both.
Hang out at Nairobi Street Kitchen several different times to try a bit of everything.
This is Nairobi’s food playground. It’s a bit of a hub of different food booths, so feel free to hop around from one to another. Tacos upstairs, sushi down below, a stray samosa, a snazzy cocktail. I personally loved the adobo chicken wings I had, paired with a Tusker Lager.
While this place is a delicious food paradise, it’s also a very reliable hangout. The outside space offers occasional live music or DJs and numerous lounge type settings so you can linger long after the meal. The inside does include a handful of boutiques and if nothing else, it’s pretty photogenic.
Eat at a cultural crossroads and go to INTI for a Nikkei eating experience
Nikkei cuisine is that very special Peruvian-Japanese fusion where the boldness of wasabi and lime blend into each other. Altitude-affected sushi. Ceviche made with mastery. While the bulk of noteworthy Nikkei eats would of course be found in Lima, Nairobi’s INTI not a bad place to find it on the opposite side of the world.
The artsy plates pair well with their creative and elegant cocktails. It’s a popular date night in the Westlands neighborhood, where you can impress your partner with unique dishes hard to find elsewhere. Catch the sunset over a a plate of tiradito.
Get nyama choma at Roadhouse Grill
While Kenya has several distinct, must-try dishes, I suppose nyama choma has the strongest case for being the national dish. It typically consists of char-grilled goat, beef, or chicken, grilled all smoky and primal, plus ugali (maize porridge). If you want to act natural, pinch the ugali and use it to rip off a chunk of meat or the kachumbari tomato-onion salad it’s usually paired with.
Roadhouse Grill–no relation to the American chain that you might remember from the 90s or 2000s–is a simple, loud, casual spot that doesn’t let anything distract from the eating experience in front of you. Prices are friendly and the portions are generous.
Head to Kesh Kesh for coffee, burgers, injera… or just the vibe.
I went to kesh kesh to work. I heard it was a decent coffee shop with wi-fi where I could pull-up a laptop, and while that was technically true, I was surprised to see that it was also a full on burger joint AND an Ethiopian restaurant.
The burger and beer I ordered was solid, and from what I could see, the Ethiopian options were also great. It’s nice having a neighboring country that has its own excellent cuisine. I felt like having a massive disc of injera and my laptop out would’ve been asking too much of my tabletop, but this place is a mashup that shouldn’t work, but absolutely does. It’s chill, it’s soulful, and you’ll probably leave with both a caffeine buzz and a full belly.
Now for more coffee… Sigiria Coffee House
I already put you on to the Java House vs Artcaffé rivalry, but those are large entities. Local icons, but chains, nonetheless. You’ll probably want to mix something that’s a bit more of a one-of-one, and that would be Sigiria Coffee House. This is a place to come and romanticize your morning cup a little bit.
This is actually tucked beside the trails at the entry of Karura Forest, and it’ll feel like an escape from the city without having to actually leave. You’ll get a good tree cover, plenty of green space, and even the occasional stare from a monkey.
Let Swahili Plate introduce you to Swahili Coastal Cuisine
The Swahili Coast of East Africa has its own distinctive regional cuisine, influenced by cloves, coconuts, and historic trading routes to the Indo-Malay strait. While Nairobi is inland and up high, Swahili Plate can serve as an ambassador of the coast.
It’s downtown location is humble in appearance, but its food just might make you wish you had a Swahili grandmother that introduced you to this cuisine much earlier in life. (If you actually have a Swahili grandma… lucky you!) Enjoy the pilau, the samaki wa kupaka, and the spices. Wear something loose and indulge in the coconut sauce.
Keep it Swahili and get Swahili Biryani at Hash Grill
Okay, if we’re trying to be efficient, you could get the Swahili Biryani at Swahili Plate, where it is excellent. But we’re not going for efficiency. We’re going for experience. So consider the bonus journey over to Hash Grill a treat.
Many parts of the world are familiar with biryani, beloved mountain of rice that it is. But Swahili Biryani comes with its own twist. You’ll have the classic fragrant rice and tender meats, but the spice blend comes inspired by coastal hubs like Mombasa or Lamu. If you ever find yourself in a conversation with Indians, Pakistanis, and Bangaldeshis over who has the best biryani, you just might find a new contender has entered the arena.
Street food time! Grab smocha and mayai pasua at the Sarit Centre
Don’t think I could make it through this list without a proper street food experience. The food court of the Sarit Center is a snacking mecca. My top picks are the smocha - a smoky sausage roll wrapped in a chapati, and the mayai pausa, which are sliced boiled eggs stuffed with kachumbari. These are cheap, quick, and nostalgic bites meant to hold over an appetite in between errands, but they’re such a core part of the Nairobi experience that you can’t leave them off the list.
Get over to Birdy’s for casual eats
When you’re spending time in a new place, not every meal is going to be a big old indulgence. Gotta keep a spot open for the casual stuff. And that’s what you’ll find at Birdy’s. Chicken sandwiches, wings burgers, and maybe even a milkshake. But it’s nice when casual eats like this still feel distinctly Kenyan, and options like their half-poussin chicken with samosas, masala chips, and coconut beans and rice help accomplish that.
Get to Hero Bar for a rooftop bar with a comic book theme
Ever want to sip cocktails among comic book panels and neon lights while staring at the Nairobi skyline? Probably not, because unless you’ve been here or you’re local, you might not have known that was an option. But it is, and it’s a stunner.
The drinks are themed, the decor comes emblazoned with various superhero icons, and even the bathrooms play along with the theme. It’s not all just aesthetics. Their tapas are legitimately good.
Find a sweet snack in mandazi from the Kilimanjaro Jamia Food Court
Have you heard that adage about every culture’s cuisine having some sort of doughnut? Well, Kenya’s definitely got one, and it’s mandazi. Fried pillows of dough.
Swahili doughnuts are perhaps a bit like a mochi doughnut. Slightly sweet, chewy, and light. They’re great paired with chai… something Nairobi also does really well. Mandazi are a humble treat with cult status. Affordable, nostalgic, and always freshly made. They’re Nairobi’s version of comfort food therapy.
Enjoy the fried tilapia at Mama Oliech
I’ve heard several Kenyans cite tilapia as their favorite local dish, and while it can be prepared several ways, having it fried up is probably tops. Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, you know the drill
Served with ugali and sukuma wiki, this is Kenyan dining at its most iconic. And if some high-profile eaters can help convince you, know that Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain have made this pilgrimage.
Taste a variety of Pan-African classics at Ankole Grill
One of my favorite things about Nairobi is how well it serves as a gateway to the continent. A well-connected airport, some neighbors worth visiting, and relative stability all help with that. But if you’re not able to make it to a bunch of other African nations in one trip, at least your palette can.
At Ankole Grill you’ll find West African jollof, East African ribs, and all kinds of grilled glory in between. The ambiance is sleek but rooted, with décor and dishes that tell a story. Also, their chapati might ruin you for all others.
Whether you’re interested in the spices of Swahili coastal cuisine or bringing the appetite to a smoky barbecue joint, I can’t say enough good things about the plethora of options you’ll find in Nairobi.
Plan well! Your taste buds will thank you as you make your way around this vibrant African hub.