Getting to spend some time in New Zealand this summer (their winter) was a longtime wish fulfilled. All the gorgeous nature shots, combined with its distance, kept it at the top of my list for years.
I’d like to say that New Zealand lived up to the hype. And it did… at least relative to the amount of time we spent there. The thing is, there’s just so much to do. And some of the most beautiful are on rather remote hiking trails and in parts of the country not so compatible with a 10 day itinerary.
So while we had to leave a whole lot on the ol’ “next time list,” I appreciate the taste I got for Aeotearoa. Here are a few observations that might be helpful for anyone heading that way:
Know what to expect about which cities you’re visiting
Here’s my very brief impression of the main cities. Mind you, I’ve only actually been to a couple, so this isn’t terribly well informed. But…
Auckland – The “big city” with all the expected pros-and-cons of being the big city. You’ll probably get the best restaurants here, along with more to do in the evening, but it can feel a bit generic at times.
Christchurch – Felt like the most liveable city. Absolutely gorgeous, and so much new infrastructure post-earthquake.
Wellington – The political capital, but with some hidden gems.
Queenstown – Hard to imagine actually living there, but so full of outdoorsy adventures and attractions.
Rotorua – Probably the city most in touch with Māori culture, featuring hot springs
Wanaka – Photogenic social media darling
Dunedin – Glacier paradise down at the bottom
And of course, some of the best sites aren’t in cities, but around its 13 National Parks and notable trans-island hiking trails.
It gets windy!
Within six hours after we left Auckland for Christchurch, a tornado struck Auckland and the top of South Island. A state of emergency was called. When we made it back a few days later, you would’ve had no idea.
We were in the country in time for its winter, and while the temperatures were mild, the wind was noteworthy. Wellington happens to be the world’s official windiest city, however that sort of thing gets measured.
Kiwi humor is great
A random thing I’ve overthought before is which culture’s sense of humor matches mine most closely. While I still think the most likely answer is the obvious, American, Kiwi humor sits well with me. I love the practical and understated dry humor, and the way people don’t let their mates get too big-headed. Its full of that “don’t take yourself too seriously” energy I think our world needs more of.
Breakfast at the Cordis
I had one of the top three* breakfasts of my life on this trip. It was in Auckland, at the Cordis hotel. Its restaurant is named Eight, as it draws inspiration from eight different cuisines of the world, and it plays by those same rules for breakfast.
What I like is that they had a different station for whatever approach to breakfast you prefer. If you’re a bacon-and-eggs Ron Swanson type, they had the hot breakfast bar. If you’re more sweet toothed, the pancakes and fixin’s were out there. They had the yogurt and muesli and fruit station. And they even had an Asian zone for those of us who are down with kimchi stew and tofu for breakfast.
*My other top two breakfasts are also hotel buffets, but from the Philippines, and I hold Filipino breakfast in the highest regard.
Don’t underestimate the food scene
I did. I was pleasantly surprised to be so wrong.
Before, if you asked me to name a New Zealand must-eat, I’d say… pavlova? But is fruit and merengue ever actually a must?
Ironically, there are more than a couple New Zealand pubs in San Diego that are quite good. But their signature items are simply burgers. Good burgers. But nothing too distinct.
Well, what New Zealand lacks in signature items, they make up for in diversity and culinary skill. There are simply all kinds of great restaurants, and the food halls in Christchurch made it too easy to grab two dinners a night. I was especially fond of all the Indonesian options, as that’s a great cuisine that isn’t easy for me to find back home.
The most touristy things are still really fun
The label “tourist trap” doesn’t come with the best associations, but in New Zealand, you could do the most touristy things and have a great time. I assume the most touristy thing in the country is Hobbiton, and it’s a fun visit! It’s kind of what happens when something with amusement park appeal gets put in the hands of a place as chill as New Zealand. You get to walk about the film set, explore the inside of a hobbit house, and grab a beer at the Green Dragon Pub. Hopefully you don’t like the beer too much, because the brews are exclusive to Hobbiton.
The other big touristy thing in the area are the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves, and riding a boat under a cave that’s glowing blue is simply magical. This was my favorite item on our trip.
You gotta feel for the farm next to Hobbiton
Apparently when Peter Jackson was scouting out filming locations for The Fellowship of the Ring, he came upon the farm in Waitomo that now houses Hobbiton and knew right away that this was the spot. It’s worked out pretty well for the family, who continues to own the farm and holds a 50/50 agreement over the film set. They benefit from all that tourism revenue. On the flip side, the farm next door is virtually identical and could’ve easily done the job. If only their neighbors weren’t home when Peter Jackson was making the rounds…
Māori reparations are an incomplete success
From the bilingual signage in public spaces to all the Māori monuments, its easy to feel like the Māori-Pakeha relations have made so much more progress than parallel struggles elsewhere around the world. And a lot of progress has indeed been made. It wasn’t all that long ago that children were punished in schools for speaking the Māori language. But, it’s certainly an incomplete success. I happened to visit at an interesting time, where the most right-wing government New Zealand has had in a while is attempting to revisit a lot of core treaties. (You may have seen the viral Parliamentary haka in response.)
The book Once Were Warriors by Alan Duff is a bit older now, but still offers a more raw look into some contemporary struggles facing Māori populations.
Go thrifting in Auckland
Or don’t. I know little about fashion, and I dislike shopping. But I do know the feeling of finding a ridiculous throwback starter jacket or souvenir tee in a thrift shop and getting a ton of use out of it because it’s such a strong flavor. I do know that this experience is pretty rare in American thrift shops now, as they’ve gotten gentrified and rebranded. But Auckland’s still got it going on, and I got to relive it.
Māori concepts influenced Christchurch’s rebuild… and it’s awesome
About 70% of Christchurch was leveled during its 2011 earthquake and as plans for its rebuild were drawn, Māori planners and engineers infused culture into its design. Mahinga kai is a term that refers to gathering food, not just as sustenance, but as a means of connection to the land, its waterways, and each other as a group of people.
Today, the heart of Christchurch is somewhere where its downtown shops turn into the Riverside Food Hall which is right on the Avon River. The practicality of this design actually makes so much sense when you’re staring at it in person.
Anyways, I certainly hope this is just the first of several trips I get to take to New Zealand within my lifetime. Don’t know when the next time will be, but I look forward to getting even more deeply acquainted.