Philippe Lazaro
OCTOBER 2016

Summer '25

You know it was a good summer when it’s the year your kids discover The Sandlot and they ask you to play “The Throw Up Song” every time in the car. Shoutout to whoever decided to time actual fireworks for right when the movie in the park finished. Made for a nice touch.

Now that our kids are in school, Summer Break is an actual THING again, and while that means a lot scrambling to figure out what to do during working hours for ten weeks… it’s also nice. I wanted to lean into it this year, making a summer bucket list which was mostly checked off with these adventures.

Summer 2025… it’s been real!

Making accommodations: More than a place to sleep.

This is a story about growing up, as told by hotel stays.

Last month, I got to stay at this incredible eco-lodge in the Andean Forest.

It was connected to ancient hiking trails right alongside a river, in the prime location to find a spectacled bear. There were hot showers and cold waterfalls to splash in. Wildlife and wi-fi. The whole place pretty much felt like staying at one giant treehouse, and the food served on-site was all made from local ingredients with sustainability in mind.

It was a fantastic place to stay, and I was able to do so much without *technically* leaving the campus. After all, the campus did include several nature trails you could hike for hours, but still.

It felt like the exact opposite of decisions I was making in Luton twelve years ago.

At the time, I was in the middle of a European backpacking stint on an absolute shoestring budget, and I was taking any opportunity to cut the costs even further.

So, I flew into the Luton airport close to midnight. Rather than heading to a hotel for the night, I realized: I could save a whole 15 bucks by sleeping right there at the airport!

I just needed to find departure gates where I could blend in amongst the people who were actually waiting for something. I arranged my backpack to prop up my legs and enjoyed a wonderful four hours of sleep, made even sweeter by the prospect of saving… a very small bit of money.

But from my perspective, one uncomfortable night could buy me another night of traveling.

It helped that in my early 20s, my body was more forgiving of this decision.

I fell in love with travel pretty early, and during my study abroad stints, I discovered the magic of youth hostels. The ability to pay as little as $15 for a place to stay was a game-changer. The combination of these cheap hostels and budget airlines suddenly made my world open up wide.

Of course, hostels are always roulette wheels. You never knew when you would get the roommates who loudly stumbled in drunk at 4:00 in the morning.

But I had way more positive experiences. Like the time my whole hostel got up in unison to walk to a town square for the World Cup Final. Or the time I made friends from Cape Town I’d stay in touch with for years.

My logic was simple enough. My purpose in traveling was to see places. Not to stay holed up in a hotel room. If there was anything to skimp out on, it seemed like the obvious choice. If you’re making it all the way to iconic cities and epic locations, what’s the point if you’re going to spend it all in a generic hotel room?

And then… Airbnb!

Before it became the ire of housing justice everywhere, it was actually a pretty cool way to meet local families while traveling. In the early 2010s, I was an avid user. Most stays were about $20 a night, and I’d typically get to meet the person whose guest room I’d be staying in. Have a chat, get their recommendations.

And this is how I discovered my favorite pizzeria of all time, a proper Dutch breakfast, and a great hot springs hike.

I also had some Airbnb duds, like that Chicago apartment with no AC in the summer. Or the farmhouse in Memphis where perhaps not all the animals belonged. But at least there’s the story, right?

Things changed, however. As they do.

It’s safe to say that the Golden Era of Airbnb is done. And perhaps it’s debatable if it ever existed. But I really do miss that era.

These days, it’s unlikely I’ll meet the quirky local host, instead being let in by some key in a lockbox. And of course this is so that the faceless owner of the place can manage it easily among his portfolio of short term rentals, using contracted cleaning companies to quickly turn the place over. The furniture, even the names of the listings, all generic.

Another thing that’s different–I’m older. And between some genetic fortunes and a wee bit of a Peter Pan complex, sometimes it doesn’t always come across right away. But in a party hostel full of 20-somethings getting ready for a night out, I’d rather not explain that I got it all out of my system quite a while ago and I’m trying to call the kids before bedtime.

The era of cheap accommodations is done because not much seems to be cheap these days. And sometimes, if you have no choice but to pay more… you might as well get more for it.

I decided to fully commit to this mindset during my father-son trip to Finland last year with my oldest kid. I booked us one of those glass igloos in the Arctic Circle. It looked like ones I saw on Instagram feeds and figured that even if it was super cheesy, it wouldn’t be to a four year old.

Turns out, it was even better than I expected.

The glass igloo was one thing, but the campus of the hotel was even better. It had a couple restaurants and a bar on site. It had a sauna (because, Finland). And it had a massive snow play area. The place also had an ice hotel that you could rent. Maybe not ideal for a four year old, but they let us check it out anyways.

While we were dragging a sled around the site’s open fields, I realized that maybe it is worth it to actually go all out on accommodations sometimes.

Sometimes it can be much more than a place to sleep.

A few months later I was off on a work trip to Thailand. It was a fast-paced trip, as they tend to be. We visited a different village each day, so there was a lot of moving around. And with my family back home, I was trying to keep things efficient.

But I still found myself with a weekend in Laos. What to do?

Well, other than a quick visit to Kuang Si Falls and enjoying as much Lao food as possible, I focused on finding the most comfy place to stay that I could. I wound up at a place called MyDream, right on the NamKhan river.

And here, without work the next day or kids to wake me up, I got a rare full night’s sleep.

Here, I was able to spend half the day “staying in” without feeling guilty about it, or like I was missing out. It was actually pretty sweet.

Here, I also got an included breakfast that was so good it almost felt unethical to not have to pay extra for it.

Where does this story go next? Staying at those crazy five star penthouse suites? Living in a hotel full-time like Zack and Cody?

Probably not. Trendlines continue until they don’t, and if we’ve learned anything it’s simply that things change. I still have to sleep in airports every now and then… especially Doha’s for some reason. There are still times where I look for a cheap stay to save money, or because all I really do need is a basic place to sleep. Every location, and its costs, will be different.

But my flexibility on that is what’s changed. And my appreciation for mixing it up.

It’s hard to see change happening in real time.

One of the most discomforting truths about the world is also one of its most comforting: things won’t stay the same as they are right now. It’s a wild ride.

You might as well find a comfy place to sleep in whenever you get the chance.

Mae Na Wang

KITCHEN GARDENS

Many of the people in this part of Thailand are ethnic minorities and refugees. Many of them lack Thai citizenship.

That makes land rights uncertain. Traditionally these communities survive off the forest. But many have the lingering fear that a regional agency might force them to leave.

The Plant With Purpose Thailand team has been helping these farmers develop kitchen gardens so they can still grow the food they need to feed their families.

Praiya: “In my backyard garden, I’ve planted beans, yard-long beans, and fruit trees like avocado, longan, and durian. Since it’s just my husband and me, and we’re both getting older, I think it is practical because I can pick them and cook them every day.”

It seems like a simple solution and in many ways, it is. But it solves very immediate needs, saves the families a ton of money, and lowers their risk of falling into exploitative work. Plus, demonstrating skill at caring for their land can help create a pathway to citizenship or expanded land rights.

LUNCH IN HUAY SAN

Meals like this restore your belief in people.

Long tables.

All kinds of dishes.

Chats full of curiosity, even when you don’t have a language in common.

Full of gratitude and fish, thanks to my Lahu friends.

Nelson Mandela

I had the chance to go by Nelson Mandela’s old cell on Robben Island years ago. It’s a strong reminder that regardless of how down everything might look at a given moment, making an impact takes playing the long game.

Felt like I should’ve done a Mandela portrait ages ago, but only got around to it somewhat recently.

What is Social Impact Storytelling?

This year, I completed a certificate in social impact storytelling… which is something I’ve been doing for well over a decade now.

It’s a lot of fun. Being a storyteller has allowed me to get up close interactions with so many different walks of life. Former street kids in Nairobi. Priests in Ethiopia. Mezcaleros in Oaxaca. Mud Wrestlers in Kolkata. But beyond all the fun is a deep belief that well told stories have the capacity to create real change.

It gets real buzz-wordy real fast, but in my newest video I try to break down how that actually looks in my experiences.

The Audubon House

This was the house I lived in when I was Rhys’ age.

It’s usually what I think of as my childhood home, even though we only lived here for a couple of years and my family technically didn’t own it. My aunt did, and we stayed here while my dad was sick. I have some of my earliest memories here.

I hadn’t been back in nearly 30 years, but something about being in Philly with Rhys at this age made it feel like the right time. Kind of an emotional experience!

And then he had to go to the bathroom and since we were out in the suburbs, I quickly got reacquainted with the woods behind the old house.

Philly

I have a soft spot for classic Philly rowhouses.

They feel a little English with how space efficient they tend to be and each one has such a distinct layout it’s always a surprise inside.

If not for the scarcity of access to soil in these houses, I’d love living in one.

Philly’s Magic Garden – A large outdoor labyrinth featuring walkthrough mosaics aimed to change the area's rep. Now a thriving nonprofit.

Just boppin’ around Fishtown.

Pretty pleased with this hat pickup from Gilda in Philly.

Dick Allen

I’m too young to have seen Dick Allen play baseball, but I’m well aware of his importance to Black baseball, especially in Philly.

He took no crap, and made it clear that integrating the big leagues alone wasn’t enough. Respect was warranted. That paved the way for guys like Jimmy Rollins and Ryan Howard to later shine by being themselves.

Too bad Dick Allen passed just a couple years before being inducted into the Hall of Fame this summer. But I had to draw this as a tribute. Between the mutton chops and fro and old school Philly colors… really one of the more fun athletes to illustrate.

New Zealand: Upon Closer Observation

Getting to spend some time in New Zealand this summer (their winter) was a longtime wish fulfilled. All the gorgeous nature shots, combined with its distance, kept it at the top of my list for years.

I’d like to say that New Zealand lived up to the hype. And it did… at least relative to the amount of time we spent there. The thing is, there’s just so much to do. And some of the most beautiful are on rather remote hiking trails and in parts of the country not so compatible with a 10 day itinerary.

So while we had to leave a whole lot on the ol’ “next time list,” I appreciate the taste I got for Aeotearoa. Here are a few observations that might be helpful for anyone heading that way:

Know what to expect about which cities you’re visiting

Here’s my very brief impression of the main cities. Mind you, I’ve only actually been to a couple, so this isn’t terribly well informed. But…

  • Auckland – The “big city” with all the expected pros-and-cons of being the big city. You’ll probably get the best restaurants here, along with more to do in the evening, but it can feel a bit generic at times.

  • Christchurch – Felt like the most liveable city. Absolutely gorgeous, and so much new infrastructure post-earthquake.

  • Wellington – The political capital, but with some hidden gems.

  • Queenstown – Hard to imagine actually living there, but so full of outdoorsy adventures and attractions.

  • Rotorua – Probably the city most in touch with Māori culture, featuring hot springs

  • Wanaka – Photogenic social media darling

  • Dunedin – Glacier paradise down at the bottom

And of course, some of the best sites aren’t in cities, but around its 13 National Parks and notable trans-island hiking trails.

It gets windy!

Within six hours after we left Auckland for Christchurch, a tornado struck Auckland and the top of South Island. A state of emergency was called. When we made it back a few days later, you would’ve had no idea.

We were in the country in time for its winter, and while the temperatures were mild, the wind was noteworthy. Wellington happens to be the world’s official windiest city, however that sort of thing gets measured.

Kiwi humor is great

A random thing I’ve overthought before is which culture’s sense of humor matches mine most closely. While I still think the most likely answer is the obvious, American, Kiwi humor sits well with me. I love the practical and understated dry humor, and the way people don’t let their mates get too big-headed. Its full of that “don’t take yourself too seriously” energy I think our world needs more of.

Breakfast at the Cordis

I had one of the top three* breakfasts of my life on this trip. It was in Auckland, at the Cordis hotel. Its restaurant is named Eight, as it draws inspiration from eight different cuisines of the world, and it plays by those same rules for breakfast.

What I like is that they had a different station for whatever approach to breakfast you prefer. If you’re a bacon-and-eggs Ron Swanson type, they had the hot breakfast bar. If you’re more sweet toothed, the pancakes and fixin’s were out there. They had the yogurt and muesli and fruit station. And they even had an Asian zone for those of us who are down with kimchi stew and tofu for breakfast.

*My other top two breakfasts are also hotel buffets, but from the Philippines, and I hold Filipino breakfast in the highest regard.

Don’t underestimate the food scene

I did. I was pleasantly surprised to be so wrong.

Before, if you asked me to name a New Zealand must-eat, I’d say… pavlova? But is fruit and merengue ever actually a must?

Ironically, there are more than a couple New Zealand pubs in San Diego that are quite good. But their signature items are simply burgers. Good burgers. But nothing too distinct.

Well, what New Zealand lacks in signature items, they make up for in diversity and culinary skill. There are simply all kinds of great restaurants, and the food halls in Christchurch made it too easy to grab two dinners a night. I was especially fond of all the Indonesian options, as that’s a great cuisine that isn’t easy for me to find back home.

The most touristy things are still really fun

The label “tourist trap” doesn’t come with the best associations, but in New Zealand, you could do the most touristy things and have a great time. I assume the most touristy thing in the country is Hobbiton, and it’s a fun visit! It’s kind of what happens when something with amusement park appeal gets put in the hands of a place as chill as New Zealand. You get to walk about the film set, explore the inside of a hobbit house, and grab a beer at the Green Dragon Pub. Hopefully you don’t like the beer too much, because the brews are exclusive to Hobbiton.

The other big touristy thing in the area are the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves, and riding a boat under a cave that’s glowing blue is simply magical. This was my favorite item on our trip.

You gotta feel for the farm next to Hobbiton

Apparently when Peter Jackson was scouting out filming locations for The Fellowship of the Ring, he came upon the farm in Waitomo that now houses Hobbiton and knew right away that this was the spot. It’s worked out pretty well for the family, who continues to own the farm and holds a 50/50 agreement over the film set. They benefit from all that tourism revenue. On the flip side, the farm next door is virtually identical and could’ve easily done the job. If only their neighbors weren’t home when Peter Jackson was making the rounds…

Māori reparations are an incomplete success

From the bilingual signage in public spaces to all the Māori monuments, its easy to feel like the Māori-Pakeha relations have made so much more progress than parallel struggles elsewhere around the world. And a lot of progress has indeed been made. It wasn’t all that long ago that children were punished in schools for speaking the Māori language. But, it’s certainly an incomplete success. I happened to visit at an interesting time, where the most right-wing government New Zealand has had in a while is attempting to revisit a lot of core treaties. (You may have seen the viral Parliamentary haka in response.)

The book Once Were Warriors by Alan Duff is a bit older now, but still offers a more raw look into some contemporary struggles facing Māori populations.

Go thrifting in Auckland

Or don’t. I know little about fashion, and I dislike shopping. But I do know the feeling of finding a ridiculous throwback starter jacket or souvenir tee in a thrift shop and getting a ton of use out of it because it’s such a strong flavor. I do know that this experience is pretty rare in American thrift shops now, as they’ve gotten gentrified and rebranded. But Auckland’s still got it going on, and I got to relive it.

Māori concepts influenced Christchurch’s rebuild… and it’s awesome

About 70% of Christchurch was leveled during its 2011 earthquake and as plans for its rebuild were drawn, Māori planners and engineers infused culture into its design. Mahinga kai is a term that refers to gathering food, not just as sustenance, but as a means of connection to the land, its waterways, and each other as a group of people.

Today, the heart of Christchurch is somewhere where its downtown shops turn into the Riverside Food Hall which is right on the Avon River. The practicality of this design actually makes so much sense when you’re staring at it in person.

Anyways, I certainly hope this is just the first of several trips I get to take to New Zealand within my lifetime. Don’t know when the next time will be, but I look forward to getting even more deeply acquainted.

Social Impact Storytelling

This year, I completed a certificate program in Social Impact Storytelling with Georgetown. It’s been a minute since I’ve done anything academic, but it was kind of nice to be back!

They say that screenshotting every single lecture slide isn’t a really effective notetaking method… but I seriously wanted to retain everything. And I have definitely gone back to look over everything as I pass some gems along to my team.

Here are some faves:

⚡️ To make a movement attractive, build its culture of storytelling

⚡️ To navigate the complexities of storytelling, it helps to see yourself as a co-creator. Moderate a conversation with people, rather than owning the narrative.

⚡️ It’s easy to obsess over the micro-impact of storytelling (clicks, volunteers, fundraising dollars…) at the expense of its macro-impact (shifting the narrative on certain issues.) More transactional wins are easier to measure, but it’s always helpful to see things both ways.

⚡️ Using simpler language and minimizing complexity isn’t “dumbing it down.” It’s working with the human brain in a way that helps us better relate to the happenings in the story, and doing it well takes smarts!

⚡️ Choosing curiosity over certainty always makes for the better story

The Last Week of Summer

The Pros and Cons of School

One of the funny things I’m still getting used to now that I have a kid in school is that summer is a thing again. And so is the end of summer. The school year starts tomorrow. Kindergarten for my oldest, and five days a week of preschool for the twins.

Soon enough, summer will be a total quandary for us, as it is for a lot of parents. This year he was young enough so we could send him back to his old preschool with his siblings and that took care of three days a week, grandma for the other two. The next few summers probably won’t be that simple, but we’ll cross that bridge eventually.

I actually like being able to lean more into the spirit of summer. The other week, we brought the kids out for a movie-in-the-park, which is quickly becoming a favorite summertime ritual. The feature happened to be The Sandlot, and my kids absolutely loved it. Tequila scene especially. 

We happened to catch the movie at a park on a hill. If you know where to look, there’s a little opening behind the playground with a view of the whole bay. After The Sandlot, my three year old told me she had never seen fireworks before, and wouldn’t you know it, there happened to be a few going off right at the moment. I led the kids to the secret viewpoint and… you just can’t script that kind of thing!

It’s been a good summer, but it’ll also be nice to have school going again. I’ve come to the conclusion that both have their pros-and-cons, so it’s a good thing that they switch on and off, alternating inconveniences.

Summer lets us sleep in more. Not having to worry about a 7:00 drop-off gives me more flexibility around my running schedule.

School, however, saves us money. Next year will be bliss, where we can stop paying our daycare center at least a third of our paychecks. For now, we’ll settle for the relief of having one fewer tuition. 

Also, this will be the first time where we’ll have five days a week of school for all three. I’ve had to be real creative with my work schedule the past couple years so this slack already feels like a luxury.

The Naked Gun

One thing I will miss from our summer lives, however, will be the opportunity to do random afternoon dates. Daycare goes until 5:00 and not 2:00, and Deanna often finishes work at 2:00 or 3:00. That means if I start my work a couple hours early, we can slip in a random date on a weekday afternoon.

A few days ago, we decided to take advantage of that window to go see The Naked Gun. The dumb, dad-jokey humor of the original and other Leslie Nielsen classics hold a special place in my memory. Seeing the trailer for the new installment, along with the Liam Neeson casting, made me trust this one.

I’ll say, I liked it. It perhaps wasn’t quite as densely packed with jokes as I anticipated, but it was true to the spirit of the original and self-aware. What’s significant is that a feature length comedy was just released in theatres, and I really want it to do well. Well enough that theatrical comedies become a thing again.

We’re halfway through the decade and I can think of only three other comedic films to reach theatres. Joyride, The Weird Al movie, and the Please Don’t Destroy movie. And those didn’t exactly get big releases. I remember walking around Blockbuster back in the day. The comedy section was like a third of the store. Who would’ve thought that we’d grow up and that entire genre would be gone?

Of course… the entire store is gone. But you know what I mean. They still make all the other genres. But how’d we lose comedy??

I can’t help but note the way the disappearance of comedic movies syncs up with the rise of hostile politics and social erosion and I don’t think that’s a coincidence. I could spend a long time unpacking that, but the short synopsis is that we forgot how to laugh at ourselves and take ourselves too seriously.

Clapping back in the comments section with the 🤣 emoji as punctuation is a wack replacement for humor.

My Auckland Jacket

Speaking of comedy, I’ve got a couple of improv shows coming up this weekend and I’m ready to shake off some rust. My last couple of shows weren’t exactly my best and I could feel myself overthinking. But that’s the catchy part of improv. If your show goes well, you wanna chase that high again. If it doesn’t, you wanna chase it down soon enough with a better performance. Either way, you make your way back on stage, and I’m thankful to have these opportunities every week.

I played this past Friday at my home theatre with Pacific Quiche, then Saturday with Optimus Rhyme at a venue I’ve never played at before.

I heard a lot of good things about the Brooks Theatre in Oceanside, namely the crowd that turns out for shows. It’s a bit different than the sea of familiar faces I’d gotten used to at the theatres closer to San Diego, and they lived up to the hype.

I also got to debut the obnoxiously loud Asics jacket I picked up in Auckland.

One thing I learned about Auckland earlier in the summer is that the city has a really good vintage scene and thrifting culture. It reminds me of what thrift shops felt like before the song Thrift Shop. At most thrift shops these days, I feel like somebody just dropped off dozens of the same used running shirt, then the thrift shop manager priced them like a rare artifact.

Not so in Auckland! A bit of a treasure hunt for nostalgic hits. Starter jackets. Jerseys of long retired ballers. Tour shirts for obscure and forgotten indie bands.

Some of my favorite finds have come in this sort of setting. I remember in college getting an old 1984 Team USA windbreaker that felt like paper, and a Japanese baseball jersey. They felt like absurd purchases at the time, but I ended up getting so much use out of them for themed parties and what not.

I’m hoping the turquoise, purple, and zebra-striped Starter jacket I picked up in Auckland plays a similar role. Being on a hip-hop improv team should help. 

Jhoan Duran’s Entrance

On my list of simple things that make me glad to be alive is walkout music. You know? Your at-bat song if you’re a baseball player. Your entrance jam if you’re a wrestler. The song intro that blasts across the room if you’re a teacher, a postal worker, or a floor nurse.

I guess those latter three professions don’t typically use entry music, but I’m fully supportive of that becoming a thing.

Anyways, I’m glad that taking the improv stage gives me a chance to try out different walk-out anthems. I don’t know if Gasolina can be topped, as its an instant signal that a 15 year old from the Dominican Republic is about to knock one out of the park. That said, Deanna and I entered our wedding reception venue to Sleigh Bells’ Tell ‘Em, and that’s a lesser known way to make your presence known.

I suppose I’m on a walk-out music kick lately because baseball’s trade deadline just passed, and the Phillies’ big trade was for Jhoan Duran, a closer who throws 102 MPH. Just as importantly, he has one of the more sophisticated entries I’ve seen for an athlete, with the stadium going dim for a light show synced among fans, animated spiders and flames taking over the LED ribbon screens across the stadium, and Farruko’s El Incomprendido stirring up Citizen’s Bank Park. 

It’s been a long time since the Phillies have had a true closer, and it’s real nice to have a reliable pitcher in the role. I suppose if the theatrics were setting up somebody who routinely blew the game, they’d get old fast.

But, I think there’s a lesson for all of us from this: If you could use an assist at being more present for the task in front of you, cue up some at-bat music.

Anyways, time to go be present for the dwindling days of summer.

Travel Won't Make You A Better Person

This might be a little bit of an unpopular opinion: Travel doesn’t make you a better person

Yeah, there’s that beloved Mark Twain quote about it being the antidote to bigotry or whatever, but I don’t think it's that simple. Travel’s a privilege, first of all, and just because somebody doesn’t have the funds or is limited to a weak passport doesn’t make them less open-minded or empathetic.

If you travel with the right mindset, yeah, it can play a role in a whole lot of development and growth. But I don’t think it should be treated like a de-facto indicator of a person’s values.

The Yapa Family

“In Myanmar, life was dangerous. We lived in the forest, constantly afraid of thieves and violence. It wasn’t peaceful. That’s why we came to Thailand.”

I got to spend an afternoon with the Yapa Family on my last visit to Thailand and to hear about their escape from Myanmar and the beginning of their village. Uncle Yoba was practically one of its founders.

“Back then, the forest was full of wildlife and fish—we could catch fish that weighed up to 5 kg. The land was fertile. But eventually, the impact of deforestation caught up with us. When our farmland stopped producing well, we felt hopeless. For years, I used the same plot of land, and over time, the soil degraded.

Through Plant With Purpose, I received training and seedlings. I planted trees—some for food, some for shade, some just to restore the land. I’ve been part of the program for three years now, and I’m proud of that. Before, my land was dry and barren. Now, it’s beginning to recover.”

A Guide to Finland | Essential Eats and Experiences

For whatever reason, Finland keeps getting overlooked as a destination in Northern Europe.

My first visit to the country was a father-son trip when my oldest was just four. It was an instant winner, as Finland is one of the world’s most child-friendly destinations. I was immediately glad I rolled the dice on flying him across the planet, as we were rewarded with an unforgettable time together.

It’s not hard to see why Finland constantly gets named as the World’s Happiest Country. They’re having a 90’s Chicago Bulls-esque run of being top ranked for happiness. Moominvalley might not be a real place, but its native country of Finland might be the closest thing we’ve got.

Here are my top picks for places to stay, treats to eat or drink, and things to see and do should you make it over to one of my favorite countries. 

When & Where

Most of the items here will be centered in the spots I’m more familiar with: 

  • Helsinki – Finland’s capital and by far its largest city. Sleek and modern, while still being quieter than most European metros.

  • Tampere – A city in Southern Finland with plenty of local quirks and an industrial history

  • Rovaniemi – A small city at the edge of the Arctic Circle, home to Santa Claus Village

  • Miscellaneous National Parks – Finland has plenty of hikes and campsites that come recommended

In all likelihood, Helsinki will be your entry point into Finland. It’s a well-connected hub and easily accessible from major cities all around the world. The train system provides an easy way to get to central Helsinki.

For the most part, Finnish cities are easily navigated with public transport, and rideshare apps can fill in the gaps, with perhaps a short-term car rental for hiking trips.

Also note that from Helsinki, one can easily catch a two-hour ride to Tallinn, Estonia on a very comfortable ferry. Consider giving a few days on the itinerary to Estonia, or even more if you want to venture further into the Baltics.

The items on this list aren’t likely going to happen all on the same trip, because the best time of year for each one will vary.

My personal favorite time to visit Finland is in mid-to-late March. Yes, it’ll probably be colder there than where you’re coming from, but I think that’s part of the aesthetic. You expect Finland to be cold, and the blankets of Arctic Snow are absolutely gorgeous. At the tail end of winter, the cold will be mild enough so you can still go out and about, plus, this probably gives you the best chances at seeing the Northern Lights if you’re in the right spot.

September’s not a bad time either, in terms of Northern Lights probability. Then there’s Finland in the summer. It’s a good option for escaping the heat that takes over most of Europe these days, and Finland’s got plenty of gorgeous lakes and National Parks for camping.

Where to Stay

Finland gives you a pretty good range of options for places to stay within reasonable price points. Splurging is always an option, but I do think the budget/mid-range options tend to provide everything I could possibly want. Instead I prioritize location.

I’m also throwing in a few unorthodox accommodations, where you’ll be sure to have a memorable stay!

Hotel Fabian (Helsinki)

Fabian’s location is an amazing spot for visiting Helsinki. You’re only a couple blocks’ walk from the heart of town, but it's still on a quiet enough street. Something about the hotel’s presentation seems to be just the right balance of feeling luxurious while still being understated and true to the Finnish-style of keeping it practical. It’s got a snuggly feel, and their breakfast is a good one to wake up to.

Hotel Mestari (Helsinki)

This hotel’s got a moody, cool, and stylish swagger. The rooms almost look like they were styled by a Nordic Bond villain. People come for the swagger, stay for the sauna, and whisper about the breakfast like it’s a state secret. It’s located in a fun, artsy part of town and housed in a former police station… which somehow adds to its rebel vibe.

Unity (Tampere)

Okay, so imagine a brick industrial warehouse evolves into a cool co-working space. Then that co-working space evolves again and becomes a hotel. That’s Unity. Tampere’s a quietly edgy and creative city, and this hotel matches its charm. It’s not a bad option for a long-term stay, but with a lot more charm than the generic apartment-stay. There’s a rooftop sauna (because Finland), a community kitchen, and a relaxed feel… with a few plants for emotional support.

Arctic SnowHotel & Glass Igloos (Rovaniemi)

I booked a night here thinking it was a splurge, and wound up feeling like it was a steal. That’s because Arctic Snow Hotel is so much more than a spot to crash for the night. It’s on a campus full of snow-play areas, reindeer feeding, and so much more. You’ll catch a buffet and a fine dining restaurant and a bar. And a sauna, of course. They also have an ice hotel where you can book a room in case sleeping on a block of ice is your thing. Their glass igloos were equipped with aurora alarms so when the sky goes green overhead, you won’t miss it.

Skytent Ecotent (Nuuksio National Park)

Yup, one of my recommended accommodations is a hammock. In a tree.. In a national park. Nuuksio National Park appears later in this list as a great visit, and here’s a great spot to stay if you want a forest campsite with some off-grid cred. No walls, just birdsong, pine needles, and squirrels. If you’re in Finland in the summer, it’s a great way to fall asleep under the stars.

My Top Three

1) Get up north via the Santa Claus Express and spend a day at Santa Claus Village 

Hop aboard the Santa Claus Express. It’s the closest thing we’ve got to the Polar Express, but without the creepy early 2000s animation. It leaves from Helsinki’s main station and the journey to Rovaniemi gives you private cabins, slow-motion scenery, and “main character in a winter novel” energy.

If you’re doing this, best take the overnight route. You’ll be able to sleep in a bunk-bed cabin with a private toilet and shower. Then get ready for the coolest waking up experience as the sun comes up in the Arctic Circle.

Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, it’s magical. Santa Claus Village is where Christmas goes extra. 

Embrace it. Commit to the bit. You’re here.

2) Go indulge your Moomin fantasies at Moomin World or Moomin Museum

Wait… I’m hoping you’re familiar with Moomin. Tove Jansson’s emotionally resonant world of nature-loving hippolike creatures that feels like a squishy hug. Well, if you did grow up with Moomin, it needs no introduction, and if you didn’t, a trip to Finland is the perfect way to get acquainted.

A theme-park island recently opened in Naantali, offering hobbit-hole houses, storybook trails, and zero scary rides… just wholesome, weird, deeply Finnish fun. It’s probably most aimed at younger kids, but I confess, I enjoy it all the same.

If you happen to be in Tampere, its Moomin Museum is where the emotional depth of the Moominverse is lovingly preserved in dim lighting and glass cases. Original drawings, melancholy quotes, and hauntingly adorable figurines fill the space like a soft-spoken dream.

And all over Helsinki, you’ll find Moominshops and Moomin Cafés, even at the airport.

3) Get your sauna experience at Löyly Helsinki

The Finnish visit would feel just a little incomplete without some sort of sauna, huh? his architecturally stunning waterfront steam temple mixes traditional wood-burning heat with sleek design and cold-dip access to the Baltic. Locals love it for after-work detoxes. Just remember: it’s all chill until you jump in the sea and forget what warmth is for a solid 30 seconds.

This place also pairs with a sleek and attractive restaurant with a great view of the sea.

In case this place isn’t along your way, many Finnish accommodations offer sauna, but i recommend carving out some time for it.

Essential Eating Experiences

Salmon. Salmon soup, salmon pie, and straight up salmon.

Try it at Vanha Kauphaali (Helsinki)

Lohikeitto is creamy, dreamy salmon soup. It sounds simple. It is simple. But it delivers. Chunks of buttery fish, soft potatoes, and a savory broth… bonus points when paired with a thick slice of warm bread.

Vanha Kauphaali is one of the city’s main food halls and a perfect spot to try salmon soup. Practically every other stall offers it. You can also find salmon pie here, though I’ll make some other recommendations for places that offer it up. In my experience, the vendors were quite friendly, and happy to sell fresh cuts of fish, dressed up just to taste.

Finnish pastries: voisilmäpulla, karelian pasties, cinnamon buns

Try it at the Hakaniemi Market or Ekberg Café (Helsinki)

As far as pastries go, the Finnish cinnamon bun is a classic. So are karelian pasties. You’ll find several options for those at the Hakaniemi Market. Located in a trendy neighborhood, you’ll find it a bit more chaotic than Vanha Kauphaali, but that’s part of its vibe.

You’ll find some regulars who drop in for their trusted fishmonger or for cheese-stuffed pastries no chain bakery can touch. It’s less polished than Vanha but way more fun if you like your markets with a side of attitude and pickled everything.

Ekberg is the grande dame of Finnish cafés, housed in a 19th-century setting with one of the best presentations of classic Finnish pastries and coffee. It’s perhaps a bit on the posh side, but you still have to bus your own tray to keep you humble. Voisilmäpulla is a classic Finnish sugar-butter bun that this spot happens to do quite well.

Mustamakkara, Finnish blood sausage.

Try it at Tampere Market Hall (Tampere)

Not me sending you off to another food hall! Well, Tampere’s is buzzing with energy, savory smells, and enough local character to fill a sauna. Maybe your best chance to try Tampere’s infamous blood sausage (mustamakkara) with lingonberry jam. It’s weirdly delicious, and somehow... comforting? It’s not everybody’s favorite, though, so there’s also everything from hand-rolled sushi to grandma-grade meat pies (lihapiirakka).

Blueberry Juice

Try it on the way there

Finland has a signature blueberry juice drink that is an absolute treat. One of the best versions of this is one that’ll be available on board flights via with FinnAir.

Once you’ve landed, though, you’ll find plenty of options available at any given Finnish grocery store.

Other things to see and do in…

Helsinki

Hang out at the Oodi Library

This is the most impressive library I’ve seen.

This futuristic book palace is where you can check out a novel, a 3D printer, or a video game console, all while enjoying café vibes and a forest of indoor light. People love it for being a community space that actually feels like it’s for everyone: artists, gamers, toddlers, and pensioners all peacefully co-exist beneath that swooping roof. There’s a cinema and restaurant on the floor level, a sleek reading area on the top level, a kids’ play area, and a midsection where you can play board games. 

Get to Andaté to experience Finnish coffee culture

Finns consume plenty of coffee, therefore, there are plenty of cvarying opinions over which one is best. You’ll see the name Fazer pop up a lot. It’s a big Finnish chain, and honestly, it’s quite good. Their chocolates are worth a taste. But if having your classic Finnish coffee shop experience in a chain isn’t your style, I might recommend Andaté as an alternative. It’s all houseplants, sunlight, and minimalist serenity.

Check out the Helsinki City Museum 

The Helsinki City Museum is actually free, which sweetens the deal a good amount. It also proved to be a good spot to bring my four year old, as there were a lot of hands’ on items at the Children’s Town area.

But for a very different museum experience, visit Punkmuseo

It’s the Punk Museum! A a tiny space packed with zines, vinyl, and the kind of angst you can only get from basement shows and too-tight jeans. It’s proudly DIY, full of attitude, and often staffed by people who probably were in that band. 

Stroll by the Kamppi Chapel… and probably several photos while you’re at it. 

In the middle of the city’s hustle, Kamppi Chapel just whispers peace. This sleek wooden structure looks like a giant walnut, a quirky building with a lot of character. It shares its plaza area with a large shopping complex, which makes its calm and quiet interior even more of a feat.

Time for a nicer dinner in Helsinki? Savotta

Savotta is more on the fine dining end of the spectrum, but it retains a lot of Finnish flair. The space looks like it’s been inspired by a log cabin, and you’ll find antique tools on the walls, plaid napkins, and menus with wild game and foraged mushrooms. 

Hop a ferry to Suomenlinna and take a walk

Okay, I’m not typically enthralled with the idea of visiting a fortress. But this sea-fortress is just 15 minutes from the center of the city, and so many people report feeling a sudden tranquility upon arrival. It’s a great walking area, and if you actually are a history buff, then enjoy nerding out over tunnels and battlements.

Walk at the Hietaniemi Beach Trail

A beach? In Finland? Oh yes. People come for jogs, dips, dog-walks… if you happen to be visiting in the summer, you’ll find Finns enjoying the most beach friendly weather they get. But even at other parts of the year, it’s still a scene.

Tanner is a fixture in one of Helsinki’s hippest neighborhoods. 

Breakfast and lunch in the morning with outdoor seating options, dinner in the evenings with DJ accompaniment on the weekends. Oh, and brunch.In terms of food, they have plenty of pizza options, a pretty good shakshuka, and there are plenty of vegan options.

Helsinki-ish

Grab a meal at Ravintola Haltia.

It’s a gorgeous nature-inspired restaurant at the edge of the National Park. Perched above treetops, this eco-friendly restaurant serves up sustainable Finnish cuisine that tastes like it came from the forest itself, because it kind of did. Berries, mushrooms, lake fish form like a forest tasting menu curated by a kindly forest spirit.

Camp at Nuuksio National Park

It’s an impressively wholesome wilderness. You can hike, paddle, pick berries, or just sit and stare at a pine tree until your existential dread melts. You can come and visit for the day, but if you’re interested in camping in Finland, this is honestly a pretty good option for that.

Go ice swimming in Kuusijärvi Lake 

What do you get when you cut a hole in a frozen lake and willingly jump in? A Finnish rite of passage and the closest thing to an out-of-body experience that’s not illegal. Hey, everyone swears by cold plunges these days. Must be something to it! 

Do some light hiking at Repovesi National Park

Check out the wildlife-filled nature reserve with pine & birch forests surrounding lakes and well marked paths. It’s relatively close to Helsinki and offers great scenes and hiking trails.

Tampere

See the town from the Pyynikki Observation Tower 

Climb a small hill, conquer a spiral staircase, and earn yourself a doughnut. That’s the Pyynikki deal. This retro tower offers killer views of lakes and trees, and a café at the top serving munkki, aka Finland’s superior doughnut. People love the low-effort adventure: you feel like you hiked without actually hiking, and your reward is sugar. It’s simple, sweet, and surprisingly satisfying.

Take a boat for a partial day trip to Viikinsaari 

A ferry accessible island on Lake Pyhäjärvi for hiking, swimming, and relaxing in nature.

Kuopio

Grab a meal with a view at Ravintola Puijon Maja 

Ravintola Puijon Maja offers a great food experience in one of Helsinki’s better outdoor towns. Great blend of food and nature, an all-you-can-eat surrounded by the forest space of Kuopio.

Rovaniemi

Go on an Arctic Safari 

You’ll find a variety of options for these all over the top of Finland. And you can easily catch some in Rovaniemi. If you happen to be more east, I might steer you towards one in Salla, aka “middle of nowhere” done very right. Arctic safaris here offer dog-sledding, snowmobiling, reindeer encounters, and aurora sightings that make you gasp and question reality. People love the untouched snow, the sheer peace, and the bragging rights.

Get pizza and burgers at Kauppayhtiö. Seriously.

At first, the idea of pizza and burgers seems a little too basic for a destination as epic as the Arctic Circle. But step inside. It’s a burger joint, record store, and tattooed indie hangout rolled into one.

You’ll often find a good-spirited crowd inside. People love the cozy messiness, locals love the vibe, and everyone agrees the burgers are worth the hype. The atmosphere alone makes it feel like a place from a movie.

Rovaniemi’s Thaibaan is proof that eating Thai food in the Arctic can be magical 

Thailand and the North Pole have about as opposite climates as you can find, and yet, the cuisine and setting pair together beautifully. I find it even easier to enjoy the warmth of Khao Soi after stepping inside to escape a harsh winter. People love the bold flavors, giant portions, and the feeling of stumbling into Thailand somewhere between a tram stop and a snowstorm.

Side note: Rovaniemi has a surprisingly good amount of Asian food options. If you have the meals to spare, you’ll also find great Korean and Vietnamese options.